Chic St Barth’s

We anchored on the edge of the mass of boats in the outer harbour of the town Gustavia, under Fort Oscar. There was a mix of cruise ships, super yachts, racing yachts etc all about the anchorage. The anchorage was actually a hub of activity with planes flying overhead and yachts coming and going. It was great to be on the edge of all these boats watching all the goings on. This place gets even busier around Dec January. Eeek!

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The port itself is also crammed with all sizes of boats stern-to the dock and red roofed homes all about. It is a picturesque town with a lot of history and really well maintained old stone buildings. There is a walking tour with boards explaining the history, which was interesting to read when we came across them. We enjoyed a nice lunch out in one of the many restaurants in town after wandering about the streets.
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The fashionable shops are very chic winding themselves amongst the cobblestone streets. A little pricey for me but nice to look at. Lots of well dressed people about that’s for sure.
P1040295The mode of transport was interesting anything from scooters to 4 wheel quads, electric cars with no doors and yes small French vehicles. A lot of the streets around Gustavia are one way so it was interesting watching people buzz all about. We picked up a real estate magazine and there were definitely some expensive homes for sale and for rent.
P1040303 In the evening we had a few drinks with fellow Calgarians Rod and Kathy who had chartered a catamaran and had seen the Maverick at the Annapolis boat show. They recognized the boat and noticed our name figuring we were from Calgary so came over to check our home out. Small world seeing Calgarians who have seen a maverick.

We decided to head up the west coast to the bay of Anse de Colombier, a Marine Reserve where they have free mooring buoys. The water was the clearest we have seen and no swells, with the odd turtle popping its head up to say hello. The beach was busy with the locals given it was the weekend. We met a land turtle walking up to the cliff face behind the beach and had terrific views along the rocky north east coast and over to the bay we were in. Great anchorage.
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It was a perfect little spot so we stayed another day and Mum & Dad paid there way by contributing to jobs on the boat. We snorkeled all around the bay and saw a lot of big fish and swam with 5 turtles. They are so graceful and cool to watch. Nice bay could have stayed here a while but Sint Maarten awaits.
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On our way to Sint Maarten we stopped at the island of Ile Fourchue and who did we see but Mark From Sea Life. Mark joined us for a hike up to one of the many peaks with great views back to St Barths and over to Sint Maarten. We put the screecher out and continued on to Simpson Bay on the Dutch side.
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Antigua again

Leaving Deshaies we knew that the winds would get up while crossing over the channel to Antigua. Sure enough the winds increased and were between 25 – 30 knots. We all wore our life jackets and settled in for the morning. It was a fast crossing and we were in Jolly Harbor before we knew it.
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Dad raised the Antigua flag and look what else we now have, a NZ flag. Not long after raising it some kiwis went by on a charter catamaran and yelled out that they were from Nelson.
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We all decided we needed a little culture and caught the local buses to St Johns. The mini van to town had air conditioning and was actually a pleasant ride for EC 3.25. The bus depot in St Johns was right near the fish and meat markets so a busy area with lots of people buying and selling. The main street of St Johns was busy with cars, fruit & veg vendors and lots of clothing shops.
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Redcliffe Quay, the historic district near St Johns harbour was once the slave trading area for the town and has been renovated and painted with duty free shops for the tourists. Quite a different area to the rest of town and anything we have seen for some time.
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The bus trip to English Harbour was interesting. Our rasta driver did not leave until his bus was full and everyone had paid there EC 4.00. Once on the road we passed through lots of communities honking and tooting to everyone along the way. He seemed to know everyone and got lots of waves back. The door on the left side of the bus was left open the whole trip I guess for breeze or perhaps it didn’t close. Hmmm at least no one fell out. Far better driver than our ride back! P1040242
We wandered around Nelson’s Dockyard Marina surprised at the super yachts that were already here. It’s a picturesque place. The fort at the entry to the harbour has great views back to the Marina.

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It was a nice change of scene off the boat for the day.

We moved up to Deep Bay ready to head to Barbuda. The winds were pretty strong and were meant to continue into the early morning. We climbed up to Fort Barrington with views to St Johns and out over Deep Bay.

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We wandered along the lagoon to the hotel at the end of the white sandy beach. It was so nice to sit and look out at the boat.

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We tried to sail to Barbuda to see the pink sands but the winds would not cooperate so we sailed changed course and headed to the french island of St Barths.

Guadeloupe, french wine and baguettes ….yummy

It’s great to wander the streets around Bourg de Saintes on the Island of Terre d’en Haut, Les Saintes. The locals and some tourists buzz around the town on scooters through the narrow streets. It is a quaint seaside town with red roofs and balconies that face out onto the street so that the locals can stop and chat as they walk home. You definitely feel like you are in a little French village and yes baguettes, French wine and cheeses and chorizo are available and of course we enjoyed them on our first night. The ice cream was appreciated given the heat and just hanging out in the square watching the buzz as people get ready to board the ferries at 5pm back to the main island of Guadeloupe.

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On the Sunday we anchored off the beach near Pain de Sucre point close to the Hotel Bois Joli, where a lot of boats from the main island of Guadeloupe had come over to enjoy the snorkeling and the restaurant. It was amazing watching the place clear out late afternoon and we then had the anchorage basically to ourselves. We all went snorkeling along the shoreline and enjoyed the clear calm waters in the bay. There were all sorts of fish hiding around the boulders.  P1040215P1040214

In the morning we sailed up to Deshaies ready to clear out bound for Antigua. Coming across the channel between Les Saintes and the main land was a dream as we cruised along; yes great winds. The coastline along Guadeloupe was very rocky with lots of little towns along the coast and rolling hills beyond. P1040218

We arrived into Deshaies just after lunch and of course in true French tradition the town is closed till 4:00 for a siesta. It’s a picturesque fishing village at the north end of Guadeloupe’s west coast.P1040224

Time to relax before town reopens. Mum has already finished one book and is on her second. She seems to like this position in the boat even while sailing. P1040219

Wandering around the small town we couldn’t resist picking up more baguettes. They are cheap and tasty and a great addition for our pork tenderloin dinner, if it makes it back given Brett likes them so much. Doesn’t our cheese, chorizo and baguettes look tasty.

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Night sail to Les Saintes, Guadeloupe

We left St Lucia at 3pm bound for Les Saintes, Guadeloupe and had a great sail past Martinique and Dominica, arriving in around 1:30pm the next day. The winds were reasonably strong with a East North Easterly so not too bad for where we were heading.

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Dad wanted to experience the night sail so was kitted out with everything and did his shifts, including dealing with a squall and mastering large freighters coming towards us fast in the dark. He’s looking a little dazed given one of his shifts was from midnight to 2am.

Mum stayed up with everyone keeping us fed, so was a great addition in the galley.  All in all a success and yes everyone is in bed as I write this blog at 9:30pm.

 

St Lucia & its beauty

We left Chateaubelair, St Vincent at 3am so we could get to St Lucia in the morning and enjoy the day around Soufriere town and the Pitons. You could spot the towering twin Pitons way in the distance getting larger and larger as we approached.P1040130P1040132

We moored along the cliff face of an area called the Bat cave off the town, a marine park, which looked over to Petit Piton rising up 2,460ft from the sea. The crystal blue green waters had fish swimming all around us so we knew it would be great for snorkeling.P1040152

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Marigot Bay had plenty of boat boys wanting to sell you things. I bought a fruit basket from Thomas while Brett bought fruit from this guy who rowed out in what looked like a bath tub to me.

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Marigot Bay was nice to wander around and very tranquil. We went up to the top of the hill for views over the bay, which was pretty spectacular. The bar at one of the resorts beckoned us to try the local brew Piton, which was enjoyed by all given our walk.

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We decided to head up the island to Rodney Bay and anchored off The Landings Resort near Pigeon Island and couldn’t believe the amount of space we had. Bliss, no boats close by and no boat boys, yeah! We enjoyed the evening at The landings including watching the sun set.

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P1040186We went into Rodney Bay town to wander around the town and to check out ready to head to Les Saintes, Guadeloupe. There was a great Tapas bar that served Flat bread pizzas on the waterfront and Piton beer so of course we had to stop.

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Leavin’ Grenada & the Grenadines

We left Prickly Bay with some rather dark clouds over the centre of the island but great winds for sailing.Coming past St George we knew this was the last time we would see it for some time. Grenada has been a great place to spend hurricane season but we are definitely ready to move north and enjoy some other Caribbean islands.  P1040060P1040057

The sail across to Tyrrel Bay, Carricou was great, not too rough for our guests. P1040061

We caught a barracuda fish and so filleted it and got it ready for fish cakes. Yummy! Hope there’s more fish out there for us.

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We stopped at Clifton, Union Island to check in and then move onto Tobago Cays. Such a nice day. Always fun sitting up front on the chairs admiring the views. P1040073P1040076

Snorkeling around Petit Tabac, Tobago Cays did not disappoint as there great coral and fish life in the really clear waters. We snorkeled to shore and while walking the beach imagined Johnny Depp filming Pirates of the Caribbean. Shame he wasn’t here now! Great little island to just hang out and watch the day disappear. There are a lot more boats in Horseshoe Reef compared to last week so nice to spend the day at Petit Tabac island with no crowds.

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We arrived in Admiralty Bay, Bequia after passing the western point of the island with the ship still sitting on the rocks since January and the unusual cave-like dwellings in the cliffs called the Moonhole. We anchored off St Margaret’s beach with those beautiful green waters beckoning us in. We have never seen the water flowing in to St Margaret’s beach as a wave.  P1040091

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Bequia is always a great place to go kayaking (esp. when its as calm as it is today), wander the streets, meet the locals, buys provisions and go out for a meal.

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We sailed along the coast of St Vincent stopping in Chateaubelair, which lies at the base of Soufriere, St Vincent’s volcano. We went for lunch ashore at The Beach Front Restaurant, which was really reasonably priced and had great views around the bay. The trip ashore in the dingy was a real treat given the tide.   P1040125P1040123

Off to St Lucia.

All the way from New Zealand

Well my parents, John and Gail have arrived from New Zealand to spend some time aboard and enjoy the nice warm waters of the Caribbean. We are planning on going up the island chain from Grenada to the US Virgin Islands over the next month. Don’t they look so happy to be here, after the long trip here. Welcome aboard Mum and Dad.

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Fun with The Stacks

After setting sail from St George, Grenada we went up the coast to Moliniere underwater sculpture park in search of sculptures.imageimage

We then continued on to Carricou, Tyrrel Bay for some local food. Those open air restaurants are always a treat.
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White island off Carriacou was cute. We went snorkeling for lobster but were unsuccessful, a lot harder than you think it should be. We all enjoyed wandering on the white sandy beach and relaxing in the sun. P1030931

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Halloween was a treat at Petit St Vincent. Megan and Tyler hunted for treasure hidden in all sorts of spots around the boat.

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At Clifton, Union Island we met Herman who took us around the local markets and showed Tyler how to play a steel pan. He owns a fruit & Vege store which Signa runs so of course we had to buy a few things, as you do, to support the locals. The golden apple cut up with salt & pepper and a little chopped onion was tasty.

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Tobago Cays and Petit Tabac were amazing with nice clear waters and great snorkeling. Brett and Dave got the wind surfer out at Horseshoe reef while we snorkeled and relaxed on Jamesby, one of the nice white sandy beaches. Good form boys……brought back memories for them both. P1030988P1030984

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Salt Whistle Bay on Mayreau was nice and calm and so picturesque with the palm trees and white sandy beach.

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Jen and Richard from Our Rose came into the bay not long after we had dropped anchor. We all enjoyed a feast of lobster and steak followed up with Chocolate cake. Yum.P1040007P1040014

We sailed north to Bequia where we enjoyed a couple of meals out (Devils Table was delicious), wandered the main street with the vendor stores, provisioned and went to the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary, which was really interesting meeting “Brother” King. He raises Hawksbill turtles hatchlings and releases them into the waters in the Grenadines. To date he has released 913 turtles. Always fun in Bequia.

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The crew were awesome all trying different jobs on S/ Wave.

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We also had lots of help in the kitchen over the two weeks to cook some yummy meals!

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The weather on the whole was pretty good so we could get out and do some snorkeling, sunbathing and surfing behind the dingey. Go Tyler. A few burnt bodies but lots of smiling faces.

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We did come across a few nasty squalls which added to the excitement.

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The sailing back to Tyrrel Bay and to Grenada were great. We had great winds and nice clear visibility, even spotted a few turtles. We came down the windward side of Grenada which was nice for a change.

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Great times with good friends. They all left with smiles and eager for a nice long shower at their hotel in Miami. P1040050

Back in Grenada

Well we have returned to Grenada and a nice clean boat thanks to Leslie who came over and aired her out and watched her while we were gone. Its so nice to be back in our own space again. Shes looking very bare as we had to remove all the canopy, sails, toys etc while we were away, in case of a hurricane. Luckily there was nothing weatherwise so all is good on our return.
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We now have a few jobs to get her ready so we can set sail for this upcoming season. P1030135a.

 

Our new teak table can finally be used.

It arrived the day before we were leaving on out trip. It looks awesome.