Island Tour

Australian yachties, (Tolly & Jas from S/V Le Mistral and Ian & Wendy from S/V Outsider) who we have followed down the various islands since Fort de France invited us to join them on an island tour of Grenada with Cutty, who came highly recommended.

We found out why the island is called Spice Isle as we came across an amazingly rich and diverse amount of flora and fauna growing wild all about the island. In one particular spot,  an old plantation Cutty found Ulang Ulang, tumeric, lemon grass; a tooth brush leaf, Cocoa, Cinnamon, Glue berries (used to glue crafts etc), nutmeg to name a few.

P1020643aP1020641a

Below the Brazil Nut. The pod was amazing and of course contains a huge number of nuts.

P1020652aP1020650a

You name it and Cutty would stop by the side of the road and show us it growing.

P1020655a

In the Grand Etang Forest we even came across the beautiful coloured trunk of the Eucalyptus tree, which dots the Australian landscape.

The Grand Etang Forest covers 1600 hectares with some amazing waterfalls, some of which we hope to hike to.

P1020664a

At the top of the forest road we met the Mona monkey who loves mangoes and appears swinging through the trees upon hearing the honk of the van horn.

We stopped in Grenville at the Nutmeg processing plant for a tour. Prior to Hurricane Ivan in 2004 Grenada was the No 1 nutmeg exporter in the world, now no 2. 90% of the nutmeg trees were destroyed and it has taken some time for the crop to slowly come back. Farmers bring the nutmeg and mace to the plant and are paid according to the quality and weight.

P1020681AP1020692a

P1020701a

There are huge trays at this plant to dry the nuts before being sent to one of the other plants on the island for further processing.

We visited an old rum distillary Rivers Rum, still producing rum, even though it wasn’t working when we were there. It uses a water wheel to crush the sugar cane and then the sugar is boiled in copper bowls and pumped up to the fermentation tanks before being sent to the boiler and vaporizer. The end product is overproof white lightening fire water. Not our best rum tour. This is not exported and no one in our group bought a bottle, way too strong.

P1020733aP1020736a

P1020741aP1020744a

grenada choc

Stopping at the Belmont estate, where Grenada Organic chocolate is manufactured, we hoped for a tour but couldn’t because there had been an accident and one of the owners was electrocuted and killed while wiring solar panels at the factory a couple of days before. Needless to say the estate was very impressive and the chocolate delicious.

It was interesting seeing the island and views, various vendors on the road sides and the houses which ranged from small homes on hillsides with no raod access to upper income homes with 3 car garages. Hurricane Ivan really caused havoc on the island and you can still see that this island with the help of other countries is still rebuilding. We found the people in all the various villages we went to so friendly waving out to us as we drove by or saying hello as we wandered along the streets.  View on tour

P1020689aP1020762a

P1020639aP1020688a

Would definetly recommend Cuttys tour.

At Prickly Bay, Grenada and a tragic event occurs

Well we have arrived in Prickly Bay, Grenada and will be here for a while to get a few boat jobs done and enjoy the island during part of hurricane season.

Unfortunately in our first few days here there was a horrible incident in the bay. We awoke at 5:30 to see the coast guard screaming past us, as he’s at the end of our bay, toward a brand new 80ft multi million dollar yacht on fire. Luckily the crew all got off uninjured but the yacht did not fear so well and burned to the water line. We understand that the cause was behind the electrical panel, which caught on fire. Really brought home to us the importance of safety and staying on top of maintenance etc. Very sad day in the anchorage and difficult watching it smoke and smolder all day thinking someones dream has gone.

The photos below came care of Mark on S/V Sea Life http://ourlifeatsea.com/  5[1]

10[1] 13[1]

17[1]

15[1]

 

Back in Carricou, Grenada

P1020595a

We spent a couple of days in Carricou. Hillsborough is the main town on Carricou and the port of clearance into Grenada. A very colorful town to wander around and visit the many vendor stores and supermarkets.

Cycled around the island and got lost trying to get from Hillsborough to Tyrrel Bay as theres not a lot of sign posts on the roads. It was hot and of course we don’t go out first thing in the morning , we head out at noon! Hmmmm you’d think we would learn.

Tyrrel Bay looked very busy with boats but appealing as it wasn’t as rolley as Hillsborough so we headed around the corner past Sandy Island and all the boats moored for snorkeling, but no one out. Will have to go snorkling here another time. P1020600a

Tyrrel

Tyrell Bay is a nice calm anchorage busy with many boats either anchored for hurricane season or heading south to the main land, Grenada.

While in Tyrrel we met Simon who sells wine and oysters to the cruisers. The thought of oysters appealed……P1020604aP1020608a

We also caught up for a drink with Jim & crew from Mopion who we got to know while in Chatham Bay and who were on holiday from the States. They enjoyed every minute they could in the water in some of the bays we had also been to in the Grenadines. You see so many of the same yachts on the same route along the way and it’s always neat to catch up and hear different peoples stories.GRP of 8

Off to the main land Grenada.

Manta ray at Chatham Bay, Union Island

At Chatham Bay, Union Island a Manta Ray came into the bay for the day and we happened to be out on our kayaks . It was so cool to watch it open its big white mouth to filter water and glide effortless around with its wing tips surfacing the water once in a while when he turned. It was about 6-7 feet across. It passed under our kayaks circling around us. Amazing. Our neighbors were actually swimming and said he just glided around them. Obviously wanted company today.P1020583aP1020588a

 

 

 

 

 

Click on the link below of the Manta Ray video care of our friends from Mopion, who swam with it.  Manta Ray from crew of Mopion

We went for a hike up into the hills around Chatham Bay and came across “Bushman” who works hard to maintain one of the properties up on the ridge. The property has some amazing flowers and you can see he takes good care of the property and the road that leads up to the house. In a place where everyone uses cisterns for domestic water supply these people have a lily pond and raise ducks.

P1020572aP1020559a

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P1020570aP1020571a

 

There were incredible views out to Canouan, Mayreau, and  Tobago Cays where we have been over the past week.

P1020576a

Union Islands Coast line and rolling mountains are amazing. It was so nice to be up on the hill top looking out at the views.

P1020580aP1020577a

 

 

 

 

Below is a picture looking down into the bay and the cows waiting for us on the beach after our walk. They just sat and watched us as we climbed into our kayaks. Its a very relaxed place and nice and quiet as its off season. Last night there were 9 boats at anchor, tonight only 4. Tough on the beach restaurant/ bars this time of year, who of course are all trying to get your business. P1020568aP1020554a

Search no further…..Saltwhistle Bay, Mayreau

There was a break in the weather and I think many boats in the anchorage were leaving Bequia. I counted 6 boats including us all raising our mains at the same time. Let the race begin. We were heading initially to Friendship Bay, Canouan as Brett had heard good things so detoured from the path the rest of the boats were taking south. In coming down the windward side the swells and winds were not good and the anchorage looked very rolly, so we changed our mind and headed to Saltwhistle Bay,  Mayreau.

P1020490a Saltwhistle Bay is a picture postcard Caribbean Island, near Tobago Cays, with a horse shoe white sandy beach, palm trees and crystal clear water.  You are welcomed into the bay by boat boys who come out to meet your boat and then race in to get the next best mooring buoy for you and help you get secured. Jerome sped in and got us a buoy right up at the beach front.P1020502a

P1020501a

Mayreau has a population of about 200 with a very small town at the top of the hill between Saltwhistle and Saline Bays. We wandered the road between the two bays passing a number of vendor stores, restaurants and bars. You could see that the locals really rely on the yacht traffic. Ferries only come in every 6 days with fresh produce etc and theres no bank on the island. P1020510aP1020513a

P1020520a

We love the names the locals give to their boats.

We ended up staying a couple of nights as it was so beautiful and the weather was perfect. P1020505aP1020507a

P1020533a

We enjoyed a dinner out at “The Last Bar Before the Jungle”, one of the beach huts at the far end of the bay run by Richard who cooks all the meals himself. He cooked so much food for us that we had left overs for lunch the next day.

P1020546a

Time to check ouf of the Grenadines and head south.

Relaxing in Bequia

We have spent 4 great days in Bequia relaxing and enjoying the town and the lovely  beaches. We anchored outside Princess Margaret beach in those crystal clear waters and have gone for a few walks in the hills around town.

P1020482aP1020454a

There are a lot of nice beaches one being Princess Margarets beach where we are.  There are a lot of yachts in the anchorage while everyone waits for the winds to settle so they can travel on. Some of the locals get around the bay in all sorts of wooden boats with a sail and are very skilled getting about.

P1020468aP1020467a

We went for a walk over the hill to Friendship Bay on the South side of Bequia, where the sands are a nice white and the waves were pounding the shore. On our walk over we couldn’t believe the size of some of the houses. Appears that a lot our rental homes in this bay. We stopped at the Bequia Hotel set amongst the Palm trees right on the beach. Nice location. P1020464aP1020459a

We kayaked down to Lower Bay on Sunday, a really popular beach in the afternoon for locals  and yachties. We lazed on the beach until a squall came through and drenched us and everyone disappeared. Eeeek why did we kayak? The winds and rain seem to arrive in the afternoons at the moment. P1020474a

We both really like Bequia and we’ll be back. Heading to Canouan, only a few hours south.

Ready, set, lets go to Bequia

So we spent a number of days in Marin, Martinique trying to find someone to test and hopefully repair our alternator. To make a long story short we purchased a second hand universal mount alternator to get us through until we can rebuild our high capacity Balmar. Yes Brett once again spent time in the engine compartment installing the new alternator and rewiring to jumper past the internal regulator so it could attach to our boat regulator that governs the batteries. Yeah it worked we were charging again. Good job Brett.P1020427aP1020428a

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was a good time to get this sorted as the weather reports while in Marin were not looking good for continuing south. Thursday mornings report from Martinique to Bequia showed Wind speeds of 19/20 knots, gusts of 20-25 knots, wave height of 2.1 – 2.3 m, wave period of 7-8 seconds (typically a little choppy) but this was much better in comparison to those in the foreseeable future. We knew it would be a little uncomfortable but decided to clear out of customs and get moving.

The passage between Martinique and Saint Lucia was the worst part with winds and gusts between 20 – 30 knots and high seas. We had put reefs in our main and reefed the genoa as needed and Seismic Wave handled it really well at speeds up to 8.7 knots. Going down the Leeward side of Saint Lucia seas were calm and we flew along at 7-8 knots which was incredible given how close to land we were. We will have to come back to Saint Lucia as it looked impressive, especially the Pitons. P1020436aP1020439a

 

 

 

 

 

The rest of our trip was much better apart from a couple of squalls that crossed our path. Radar gives us time to prepare for the blast that usually comes with the squall. We arrived earlier than expected, 3:30am in Bequia as our speeds were higher than we thought we’d get when doing our planning.

After moving the boat to a more sheltered area and clearing in at Port Elizabeth customs we needed a walk so went up to the fort ruins at the entry to the bay to see the views over the bay and look down at Seismic Wave.P1020444aP1020445a

We enjoyed walking along the waterfront where all the vendors line the road selling fruit, veg, music, hats….. you name it. It was really lively with music playing and people just hanging out. We enjoyed lunch along the waterfront and then it was time for a snooze.

P1020450a

West coast, Martinique

We anchored in Anse Mitan over the bay from Fort De France, which looked like it was a real touristy place to wander around. Its a winter tourist town with a lot of french boutiques and restaurants. In the centre of town there are some cute colorful buildings but also there are alot of buildings that need work.  The beach was ok but not like most other Caribbean destinations. Maybe the beaches will be better further around the coast.

P1020326aP1020327a

P1020330aP1020334a

We had heard good things of the beach at Grande Anse D’Arlet so headed around the point and were not disappointed.  The bay was busy with lots of yachts so we had obviously found the right place to be. The Northern end of the beach has some fancy holiday homes and the centre area of the beach had lots of restaurants and bars.  The water was so clear and really warm for swimming after our walk.

P1020336aP1020365a

We walked over to Petite Anse D’Arlet to get some exercise. Would have been perfect to ride our bikes but the walk worked out good. It’s a really nice looking town with a picturesque church, a promenade, colorful buildings and yet another nice beach. Of course we keep turning up in town when everyone is having their seister or at lunch so don’t see the shops open. Maybe Brett is doing that on purpose. P1020351aP1020348a

We wandered the beach which was busy and found a restaurant right on the beach to enjoy a nice cold beer, deserved after a walk in that heat. It’s hot down here.P1020355aP1020352a

The dingy docks in these French Islands are amazing and sometimes you see some strange boats tied up to them.

P1020361a

We got up and left Grande Anse D’Artlet early with the hope of making some head way East to Marin before the trade winds picked up and we’d be going head into the winds. We were out in 50+metres of water going past Diamond Head Rock when we unfortunately picked up an ancient chunk of fishing net in one of our propellers. Ouch!

P1020381a

The seas were a bit rough to sort this mess out so we headed to Baie Du Marigot to find calmer waters. This bay looked like a pretty place and nice & calm for Brett to get under the boat. As the net was so old and weak it did no permanent damage to the propeller or sail drive seal. This part of the coast looked really nice and would probably be great to drive along.P1020386aP1020390a

.

P1020384aP1020385a

After getting things sorted and back with 2 engines we beat our way into the wind to Marin, a huge French yachting centre and wandered into town along the many marinas. Incredible the way they have everyone squeezed in along the dock. There must be over 1000 boats here and yes it is dark and did rain.P1020409aP1020400a

We are moving between the busy bay and a nice sheltered anchorage off Club Med behind a reef. One of our alternators is not charging so we need someone to look at it in town and repair or yes buy a new one and as the weather is not too good at the moment its a perfect time to get this sorted. The bay is busy with yachts coming and going, boat races, jet skis buzzing around; so lots to watch. Have even managed to get the kayaks out and go hunting in the mangroves.P1020398aP1020404a

P1020423a

So yes we are here in Marin until the weather clears and the winds calm so we can head south again.

Fort De France, Martinique

Well we arrived in Fort De France in the morning after having passed by Dominica and through 2 squalls picking up an extra passenger, Mr Mahi the 3rd. Brett was very proud of himself as this guy was a jumper.

P1020312a

Fort De France is the capital of Martinique a busy city with lots of shopping and restaurants. We actually anchored right off the Fort near the centre of town. P1020313aP1020318a

We wandered around some of the streets grabbing provisions and hunting Internet down. The French Islands have not been so forthcoming with free wire-fi, which has been tough after getting it everywhere in Antigua.

We have decided to spend about 5 days in Martinique and will just go from bay to bay down the coast.

Les Saintes

Wow what an impressive group of islands to visit. We stayed on mooring at Ilet a Cabrit and were right beside some of the best snorkeling we have had so far this trip. The water was crystal clear with loads of fish (fish we have never seen before) and great coral around huge boulders. We climbed up to the top of the island on a concrete track passing lots of goats to some beautiful views of the islands including Le Chameau, which we hiked up to.

P1020217a

Le Chameau

Le Chameau

P1020231aP1020243a

P1020220aP1020225a

We then moored off the town of Bourg Des Saintes on the island of Terre D’en Haut with its red roofs and the older style Caribbean buildings and really enjoyed the laid back atmosphere of the town. There are 2 dolphins that have apparently made the anchorage their home and spend the day moving between the moored yachts exciting all the people that see them.P1020249aP1020294a

 

We wandered the concrete streets where the mode of transport is mainly by foot, scooter or electric bike. There are a few cars but not many. When the ferries come in with day trippers you can see how the economy thrives with people buying goods, enjoying the restaurants and all hiring scooters to get about. It’s a small place to get around with a relaxed holiday feel to it, but there are a lot of hills. Trust me I walked or rode my bike up them. Fishing is big here and you can see that when you wander the foreshore and see all the fishing boats lined up. P1020253aP1020288a

P1020289a

P1020285a

We enjoyed a seafood meal out at a place called Au Bon Vivre, which was delicious. Strange having  smokers in a restaurant again.P1020293a

The hike up to the lookout at Le Chameau, 1000 feet up, the tallest peak on the island had incredible views of the islands. You follow a very steep concrete path that is blocked off to motorized vehicles to the top.P1020268aP1020274a

It was a long weekend so there was plenty of things going on in town and a lot of people out and about at the local market. There was a park which had lots of events going on with music and lives bands, boat races and people just limin’. A great place to people watch.

P1020280aP1020284a

P1020282a

P1020296a

P1020295a

They even had a pretty impressive fireworks display out over the bay Sunday night which we were able to enjoy.

We also went up to Fort Neopleon, a restored old fort with a deep moat in great condition. Within the fort there are gardens with cacti and other succulents and a great breeze to sit and look out at the Carribean or the Fort. Inside the Fort you can wander from room to room and get some history of the local sea battles.  P1020299aP1020304a

P1020309a

P1020307a

Heading to Martinique tonight.